Ancient Khmer ruins and cultural shows a hit with tourists

Dec 27, 2011
Story and photos by FREDERICK FERNANDEZ
fred@thestar.com.my

NORTHEAST Thailand, or I-san as it is called in Thai language, is pretty quiet and subdued compared to Bangkok or Phuket mainly due to its rural landscapes and its people’s simple way of life.

However, the region comes alive in the third weekend of November every year.

This is because local and foreign tourists gather in droves to witness the Amazing Surin Elephant Roundup which takes place once a year in Surin.

This unique event, perhaps the only one of its kind in the world, brings together more than 250 elephants in a single venue. In fact, it is fair to say that Surin is in the world map due to the popularity of the Elephant Roundup.

Historical show: The colourful and mesmering sound and light performance at Prasat Sri Khoraphum gives a good description on the events leading to the formation of the Kingdom of Siam.

The Surin region is famed for its elephant trainers who manage to tame the wild elephants after capturing them in the jungle. Once tamed by their “conquerors”, the elephants are taught to perform a variety of tricks and stunts much to the delight of the spectators.

At the Sri Narong Stadium in Surin, visitors get to see a re-enactment of how the Kui tribe captured elephants from the wild and train them to do chores in the farm.

Visitors will be thrilled to see elephants playing soccer, basketball and even darts. The elephants also show their brute strength by easily defeating more than 30 human beings in a tug-of-war match.

After the three-hour show, tourists are given the opportunity to feed sugar-cane shoots and the more adventurous get to go for a short ride on the elephant for a token fee.

Fierce battle: The Elephant Roundup show at Surin also depicts scenes which show Siam at war with her neighbours in which elephants featured prominently during the battles.

This is the 51st year that this event is being held in Surin and the event gets bigger and bigger each year as more people come to hear about the spectacular show by over 250 elephants.

The best way to get to Surin is to take a flight from Bangkok to Ubon Ratchathani and then use public transport to reach Surin. One can also travel to Surin by road from Bangkok for the 457km journey.

A couple of days before the roundup, tourists get the opportunity to see a colourful presentation of dance and drama which depicts the origins of the Kingdom of Siam (the old name for Thailand). This show is presented at the ancient Hindu temple built in the 12th century called Prasat SriKhoraphum located 34km away from Surin town.

The dancers and performers wear elaborate colourful costumes and headgear as they sing and dance to traditional Thai music. The show depicts how the early inhabitants of the kingdom embraced Hinduism and centuries later became followers of Buddhism.

This ancient temple which is about 30m high is believed to have been contructed in the 12th century. The sanctuary comprises five brick towers raised on a single base, adesign similar to simialar temple ruins found in Baphuon and Angkor in Cambodia.

The stone carvings of celestial dancers on the door to the central tower of the temple is similae to the ones found at Angkor.

Apart from the elephant show, Surin is also known for its hand woven traditional silk, silverware and rattan baskets.

Ancient wonder: The Prasat Hin Phanom Rung temple at Buri Ram.

One of the popular places where tourists throng to buy traditional silk or “Yok Thong” at Surin is at the Ban Tha Sawang Village. Also known as the Village of Silk, it became well known internationally after it was chosen to do weave the silk shirts and scarfs for the APEC leaders in 2003. Three years later, weavers from the village were again chosen to to weave the silk material for the Thai royalty in conjunction with the King’s 60th anniversary in ascending the throne.

“Yok Thong” is uniquely woven either from pure silver and golden coloured silk. It takes between one and three months to complete one piece of silk fabric.

Another interesting place to visit in this region is the ancient Khmer ruin Prasat Hin Phanom Rung located about 120km from Buri Ram town. It is an ancient Hindu temple which was built when the region was ruled by the Khmer kingdom hence its design and structure has similiarities with Angkor Wat in Cambodia.

Phanom Rung is a fine example of ancient Khmer art and architecture. Believed to have been constructed in the 12th century to pay homage to Lord Shiva, the temple is built out of pink sandstone and laterite.

Standing at 383m, the temple ruins provides a breathtaking view of the Khorat Plateau and the Dong Rak Mountains that form the border with Cambodia.

The building structures within the walled compound comprise a chambered gateway, a square-based sanctuary tower with entrances to the four main corners.

“This is arguably the most impressive of similar monuments to be seen outside Cambodia which has its famed Angkor Wat,” said the local tour guide.

He added that the temple was intricately designed to enable the sun rays to pass through the 15 doorways of the temple. This phenomena can be witnessed only four times a year.

A good place to visit while on holiday on this part of Thailand will be the Pha Taem National Park located at Ubon Ratchathani. It is a tourist attraction which has plateaus, mountains, forest and waterfalls. Within the park is Pha Tame, a hilly place which has ancient paintings on the stone columns of the cliffs.

Rock wonder: Sao Chaliang is a unique collection of large rocks in the shape of mushrooms in Ubon Ratchathani.

The route to Pha Tame will allow one to see a breathtaking view of the Mekong River from the edge of a cliff. You are also able to see with the jungles on the Laos side across the river.

The Saeng Chan Waterfalls is also located at this park.

Also within the park is the Sao Chaliang, which is a large natural formation of rocks in the shpae of mushrooms. Fossilised sea-shells, pebbles and sand grains can be seen on the stone slabs.

Another interesting place to visit at will be Wat Pa Na Chat or the “Monastery in the Forest” at Ubon Ratchathani. This monastery was set up by the late Buddhist monk Achan Cha to provide English-speaking monks an opportunity to follow the way Buddha taught his monks in the forest 2,600 years ago.

The writer’s trip to Surin, Buri Ram and Ubon Ratchathani in the I-San region in Thailand was sponsored by the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT). For more information on tourism packages to the northeast region of Thailand, call TAT at : (603) 2162 3480 or visit tourismthailand.com.my